New Swell
Every year people bitch about the increasing crowds, but as soon as a real swell hits the island and the tide drops… the problems all fade away. Read more…
Life happens
It’s been eight months.
Eight months without an ankle.
Eight months without a wave.
Eight months of going insane. Read more…
The Miracle Man
Everyone loves a comeback, its key to the hero myth… the idea someone can overcome absolute adversity and save the day. In this case, it was Australian surfer Tim Rogers saving himself. Read more…
Log jam
As Bali’s drive for expansion continues, chronic Jakarta-style traffic jams are fast becoming the daily ritual, especially in the south of the island. If you’re going to endure this growing cancer, you need to maintain an open mind and develop some considerable patience. While the Bukit peninsular isn’t nearly as bad as town, its slowly getting there… and once that new Benoa freeway opens up, God help the Bukit’s modest little roads. Read more…
Life is good
Indo is a dangerously beautiful place.
Whether you’re landing an hour before another plane crashes into the ocean… or hearing tales about being left for dead at sea… suddenly personal ills – like 8 months without surfing – seem pretty trivial.
The islands never let you forget – life could always be worse – just ask Brett Archibald… he knows. Read more…
Welcome home
Sometimes we get to see how the other half lives…
All along the Watchtower
Powder swirls in every direction as I gaze through frosted glass at planes disappearing beneath a blanket of snow. Inside the airport conversations rage in German Arabic English French Mandarin Hindi Spanish Italian and Russian all busy with the subject of departure. Cancelled bookings lost reservations non-refundable tickets broken promises wedding plans birthdays business meetings all buried beneath a European blizzard. Read more…
Moors and doors
The medinas in Meknès and Fez are living museums of Moorish architectural design and a must-see for any fans of the period… not to mention those doors..
Tannery in Fez
Yes it’s a tourist trap that glorifies environmentally unfriendly slave labour but we had a look anyway and the smell wasn’t that bad…
Moroccan Gold
Moroccan postcards
Strangers from Casablanca to Meknès
The train speeds north like a bullet from Casablanca. We share seating with a Frenchman and an Arab gentleman. The ocean peeks through white washed dwellings with rooftops peppered by satellite dishes. Down the hall Arabian men engage in loud passionate conversation I don’t understand. Another stop another town another village with palm tree silhouettes on ocha colored walls. Again the train speeds away with more glimpses of colbolt blue through a stark landscape as kids play soccer next to a rubbish dump where goats graze. I look at my companion all dressed in black except for her limited edition white converse hi-tops. Our Arab neighbor remains busy massaging his phone while the Frenchman grins endlessly at the passing view. Another glimpse of ocean and I’m thinking about the waves I wont be surfing but never mind.
Berlin
Eastern ghosts born free from the wall of subterranean life a thousand miles from the bamboo dream state to human history lost and found in cobbled cement whose dark stories one can understand… but never desire..
Golden brown
When someone gets married in this world, you’re on a plane to Europe; and after thousands of miles, it generally makes sense to explore the surrounding area.
Comeback No 52
Nobody surfs forever… we heard that… but forget forever – we want it now. Read more…
Local custom
When it comes to custom rides in Indo… anything goes. Today I came across this little classic at the local supermarket. I just love the raw vitality of its design. Throw in a board rack and I’d be sold…
Fire it up
No sleep for the wicked
Did you hear that? It’s insomnia speaking. It’s not a loud voice, but one that’s fairly unrelenting – just like those ‘WTF am I doing here’ dinner party conversations.
Traditional life
Bloody f**kin unreal mate, its Australia day! Around 225 years ago the first fleet of British settlers landed here – it was the beginning of a particular version of history; and one that remains sacred on this day because we don’t have to work, we can BBQ tons of meat and get totally pissed out of our brains.
It’s a time honoured clique that continues every year… and every weekend.
Everyone’s a winner
When things are black and white… there’s less to understand…
Gland files 2012
Its getting a bit desperate now as one reaches into the hardrive to review evidence of a life once consumed by saltwater. Hopefully its not a bad thing…
Celebration
The inner journey helps sustain energy for the mundane shackles of life; the one’s we deal with every time we look in the mirror and ask ourselves did we make the right decisions about all those things that really mattered. Read more…
Eight days a week…
There she sits, beautiful, alone, untouched. Every morning she patiently waits for me, asking.. when will you make me yours, when will you give me life, the life I was promised… so long ago. Read more…
Stormy Monday
Late this afternoon a squall swept across the island from the south-west… led by a small tornado. For anyone on the southern cliffs of the Bukit… it was a spectacular display of weather.
Global Village
I wonder what Marshall McLuhan would have to say about all of this? He’d probably be smirking at the very least. Read more…
