Why we live in Indo…
The midday sun beats down upon a dusty car park … the chaos of locals villagers punting on a cock fight filters across the road. I order another aqua to quench that crippling thirst – 4 hrs on the outer reefs – you get pretty dry. I reach for the phone, there’s an sms from Joel - “How was the surf? Heard Ulu bomie 12 ft only chris out!”
It was a late start today… 6:30am. Stumbling out of bed.. everything ached..12 surfs in 7 days – it takes a toll. We must suffer for our art… that and other things.
As the day spun on… the swell continued thumping – unrelenting – insane. With jellyfish limbs and a gluttonous Padang feast under my belt… the second surf was an impossibility. The afternoon was simply best spent fondling some ice cold beers and reclining into the best show on earth…
sickk…..you are my favorite blogger/photo/artist Bukit resident……..
I meant to add a 3rd k to sickk
Add as much as u like J… nobody here minds
bastard – respectfully mind
I reckon you’ve had your share Pete… Us youngsters need to catch up…
yeah .. but that top wave is so pretty
smokin mate
Bob the Teeth! Howz Main Beach treating you? Missing those drop knee cutties mate..
its not crankin like ure side btt
hey mate ..its digger , we met at joels wedding..love ya pics and stories just got back to l.a. to make a bit a money so i can come back out.u know how it goes. any way cheers mate hope to see u later this year
Cheers Digger… enjoy Lala land.. see ya back in Baliwood…