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Why we live in Indo…

April 6, 2012

The midday sun beats down upon a dusty car park … the chaos of locals villagers punting on a cock fight filters across the road. I order another aqua to quench that crippling thirst – 4 hrs on the outer reefs – you get pretty dry. I reach for the phone, there’s an sms from Joel - “How was the surf? Heard Ulu bomie 12 ft only chris out!”

It was a late start today… 6:30am. Stumbling out of bed.. everything ached..12 surfs in 7 days – it takes a toll. But we must suffer for our art… that and other things.

As the day spun on… the swell continued thumping – unrelenting – insane. With jellyfish limbs and a gluttonous Padang feast under my belt… the second surf was an impossibility. The afternoon was simply best spent fondling some ice cold beers and reclining into the best show on earth…

12 Comments leave one →
  1. Jenggot permalink
    April 7, 2012 3:19 am

    sickk…..you are my favorite blogger/photo/artist Bukit resident……..

  2. April 7, 2012 9:36 am

    bastard – respectfully mind

  3. robert statkus permalink
    April 7, 2012 10:46 am

    smokin mate

    • April 7, 2012 11:02 am

      Bob the Teeth! Howz Main Beach treating you? Missing those drop knee cutties mate..

      • robert statkus permalink
        April 16, 2012 7:23 am

        its not crankin like ure side btt

  4. digger permalink
    April 8, 2012 11:13 am

    hey mate ..its digger , we met at joels wedding..love ya pics and stories just got back to l.a. to make a bit a money so i can come back out.u know how it goes. any way cheers mate hope to see u later this year

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