It’s been eight months.
Eight months without an ankle.
Eight months without a wave.
Eight months of going insane.
Eight months of watching the world go by, eight months of listening to stories about the best waves in a decade. Eight months of pretending it didn’t matter, eight months of denial.
Eight months of dreams about empty waves at dawn. Eight months of depression, eight months of anger, eight months of fragility. Eight months of considering life without the life… eight months of letting go.
It’s been a sobering experience… and now the journey has ended.
Let there be light… let there be waves.
Saltwater is back.
Along with this monumental resurrection comes a fresh sense, appreciation and acceptance. Tragedy happens regardless of aspirations. Whether we like it or not, we cant control the force of nature… we must go with it.
Surfing is the same. A wave has its own will and we must flow in unison – not against. To achieve the ultimate ride… we, the board and the wave must all be one in perfect harmony.
It’s simple but true.
When the mind and body are one with the world… the spirit can shine.
Life becomes beautiful.
Time to get wet.