Skip to content

Life happens

May 1, 2013

the peak

It’s been eight months.

Eight months without an ankle.

Eight months without a wave.

Eight months of going insane.

Eight months of watching the world go by, eight months of listening to stories about the best waves in a decade. Eight months of pretending it didn’t matter, eight months of denial.

Eight months of dreams about empty waves at dawn. Eight months of depression, eight months of anger, eight months of fragility. Eight months of considering life without the life… eight months of letting go.

It’s been a sobering experience… and now the journey has ended.

Let there be light… let there be waves.

Saltwater is back.

Along with this monumental resurrection comes a fresh sense, appreciation and acceptance. Tragedy happens regardless of aspirations. Whether we like it or not, we cant control the force of nature… we must go with it.

Life happens.

Surfing is the same. A wave has its own will and we must flow in unison – not against. To achieve the ultimate ride… we, the board and the wave must all be one in perfect harmony.

It’s simple but true.

When the mind and body are one with the world… the spirit can shine.

Life becomes beautiful.

Very beautiful…

Time to get wet.


Related posts:

Farewell season

Farewell season

The outsiders

The outsiders



8 Comments leave one →
  1. May 1, 2013 3:00 pm

    Eight months of missing the a surfer with such commitment to the salt.

    Eight months of a never ending strugle with loss of the salt.

    Eight months of salt total recall.

    Eight months of salt in the wound.

    Eight months of Rehab in the salt.

    Eight months of glory before the new year.

    Eight months of reunification with the masses .

    Eight months of forgetting the last eight months.

    Eight feet of foam on a eight foot wave .

    Eight new friends you will make in the next eight weeks.

    Eight bars of wax you will consume.

    Eight days a week.

    The Eigth month ” Aug.” will be your strongest month.

  2. May 1, 2013 6:37 pm

    You ate it and it took eight to get back, shit that was tough, did well to keep it together, your going to enjoy the surf even more now, stoked.

    • May 2, 2013 9:25 am

      It was a lot of steps to acceptance LS… now just have to retain the wisdom gained – especially with high-season just around the corner ;)

  3. May 3, 2013 5:37 pm

    so how’s your lung capacity?


    • May 3, 2013 6:31 pm

      Better since I gave up smoking 4 years ago – but general fitness is a joke after 8 months out. The road is long RL…

Comment on this post...

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s


Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 198 other followers

%d bloggers like this: