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July 1, 2013

the end

Never put all your eggs in one basket. Impossible advice.

Surfing is your life… your reason for living… the reason one endures. Catch a wave and trouble is gone.

But what if the universe ended?

No more surfing.


She’ll be right mate… its all good. You can still live vicariously through others… enjoy via association… contribute indirectly… share in the common stoke. Right?


Nothing’s ever gonna compare to paddling out at dawn and gliding along the face of pure perfection. Nothing.

You know its true.

Be honest.

No matter what…no matter how we try… no one’s exempt – we all have it coming.

So what then?


Do what we already know.. and practice what we already understand.

“Live in the moment… never look back… surf every wave like it was your last…”

And if that doesn’t work… you can always write about it.


Featured image – ‘Operation Crossroads Baker’ (1946) – by United States Department of Defense

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8 Comments leave one →
  1. Glen permalink
    July 1, 2013 7:37 pm

    A cry from the dark, when will my pain end?
    Mortality, dying is OK, taking away the endorphins of surfing is a pain too great to suffer but it all comes some day.

    There is life before surfing…………….surely there is life after.

    Hang in there Bear

  2. Nora permalink
    July 2, 2013 8:28 am

    when the waves are too big, I bake. Want a blueberry muffin, friend? :)

  3. July 4, 2013 10:57 am

    Live in the moment… never look back…good advice for more than surfing Bear

  4. July 4, 2013 1:07 pm

    according to the research done by the ponds institute, their research on hibernating bears with a fuckcrazy wound; when these ‘ animals’ do emerge from the cave – which they must, because they are so HUNGRY .. we should get out of town.

    • July 5, 2013 4:49 pm

      Emerging soon Pete… Just scored slot onboard Captain’s vessel – West Java/Sumatra via smorgasbord of prime-rib reefs. F%#k the hibernation – writer’s block must end…

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