Never put all your eggs in one basket. Impossible advice.
Surfing is your life… your reason for living… the reason one endures. Catch a wave and trouble is gone.
But what if the universe ended?
No more surfing.
She’ll be right mate… its all good. You can still live vicariously through others… enjoy via association… contribute indirectly… share in the common stoke. Right?
Nothing’s ever gonna compare to paddling out at dawn and gliding along the face of pure perfection. Nothing.
You know its true.
No matter what…no matter how we try… no one’s exempt – we all have it coming.
So what then?
Do what we already know.. and practice what we already understand.
“Live in the moment… never look back… surf every wave like it was your last…”
And if that doesn’t work… you can always write about it.
Featured image – ‘Operation Crossroads Baker’ (1946) – by United States Department of Defense